A Deep Dive into Mosel Riesling and the Soul of Markus Molitor

People often ask me what my “favorite" wine is, and honestly, the answer is rarely simple. It truly depends on context—the meal, the mood, the weather, the company. But if I had to pick, if you really pressed me, nine times out of ten, I’m reaching for a Riesling. So when the opportunity arose to meet the team from Markus Molitor, a highly revered German Riesling producer, you better believe I jumped at it.

What was supposed to be a quick, straightforward meeting turned into an intimate lunch at Fasano, a culinary gem in Midtown, Manhattan. A last-minute schedule change meant I was the sole guest, giving me rare, uninterrupted time with Daniel Kiwoski, the export director, and young Markus Molitor himself, the ninth generation to carry on the family legacy. What followed wasn’t just a tasting—it was a masterclass in Mosel Riesling, a journey through terroir, and a glimpse into the heart of a family-run winery.

Over the course of a beautifully curated meal, we tasted six different Rieslings, each one showcasing the grape’s remarkable versatility. And while every pairing was exceptionally delicious, one moment stood out: the "gold capsule" Auslese with duck ravioli in an orange reduction sauce. It was one of those rare pairings where everything just clicks and you have to pause mid-bite to take it all in. Simply put, it was chef’s kiss.But beyond the wines, what really captivated me was the personal stories and insights behind them. Young Markus, with his quiet confidence and deep respect for his family’s craft, shared stories of his apprenticeship, the lessons passed down through generations, and his vision for the estate’s future. It was clear that while he honors the past, he’s also thinking ahead, striking that delicate balance between legacy and innovation that I deeply admire.

And just when I thought the day couldn’t get better, I was invited to a private staff training at the Banville Townhouse (yes, a space that is as cool as it sounds). There, I experienced a vertical tasting of Ockfener Bockstein Spätlese Riesling, spanning vintages from 2018 to 2023. Tasting them side by side revealed the nuances of each year, the subtle shifts in character, and the remarkable aging potential of these wines. The 2020, which had already wowed me at lunch, revealed even greater depth and complexity in this setting.

This wasn’t just another tasting, it was a reminder that wine is much more than what’s in the glass. It’s about the people, the story, the connection to the land. Markus Molitor’s wines aren’t just expressions of Riesling; they’re expressions of passion, patience, and place. I walked away with a fresh appreciation for Riesling and for the kind of experiences that make you fall in love with wine all over again. This is why I love Riesling. This is why I love wine.